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Eagle Cap

Oregon

By Yes Mom I'm Alive

DAY ONE

For decades the Eagle Cap Wilderness has been something like a family secret passed down from generation to generation. Part-American Frontier, part-High Sierras, this 360,000 acre area is the crown jewel of the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest that spans the entire northeastern corner of Oregon.

A corner I considered to be pretty remote – until we pulled up to the trailhead late on Friday night to find the parking lot already full of cars.

So much for keeping family secrets.

We put down the seats in our Subaru and slept in the back for the night – surprisingly comfortable for 5'10" me, not-so-comfortable for 6'5" Jeff. In the morning we found our friend Matthew sleeping in his car a little ways down the road. We had a quick tailgate breakfast, put on our portly packs, and started up the East Fork Lostine River Trail.

After an arduous start and a narrow encounter with some pack horses, the trail leveled out. For three blissfully flat miles we walked with Eagle Cap in front of us, looming over the valley like a miniature Half-Dome.

The Lakes Basin

As we arrvied at the Lakes Basin junction, we crossed paths with a friendly couple riding two handsome horses.

"Just so you know," the man told us, beaming, "you are currently in the presence of a local celebrity!"

I looked quizzically at his wife – until I realized he was gesturing to his steed, the pinto horse featured in Travel Oregon's 7 Wonders of Oregon ads.

So far the Wallowas were exactly as advertised!

Mirror Lake

After our celebrity encounter, we arrived at Mirror Lake. So-called for its perpetual reflection of Eagle Cap perched above, Mirror Lake is the center of the Lakes Basin loop and consequently, it is quite the popular spot. The lakeshore was dotted with tents, hammocks, hikers and dogs (none famous).

Jeff, Matthew, and I ate lunch and sunned ourselves on one of the few unclaimed smooth granite boulders along the lakeshore. It was tempting to just call it a day and set up camp among the hordes, but we had a more ambitious (and solitary) campground in mind: Glacier Lake, located up and over the pass behind Eagle Cap, another 4 miles and 1000' away.

When the sun returned behind the clouds, we took it as a sign to put on our packs and get on with our day.

Glacier Lake

Glacier Lake took my breath away – partly because the air was thinner at 8,166' and I was winded from slogging up the pass, but mostly because it is strikingly beautiful.

Our first view of the towering Glacier Peak, standing tall and silver over a still reflective lake, was a sight for our sore eyes and sore legs. We jubilantly made our way down the final switchbacks to set up camp along the lake.

SUNSET

After our mundane tasks of setting up camp and re-filling our depleted water supply, we prepared dinner. Before my first bite, I saw out of the corner of my eye the eastern sky behind us had turned magenta. I dropped my spork, threatened the boys to not touch my dinner, grabbed my camera, and took off toward the eastern side of the lake.

The pink and orange auroral sunset was unlike any sunset I've seen before. The boys eventually caught on to why I fled and came over to the other side of the lake to join me in awe.

COLD NIGHT

When the sun set below the high horizon the lake basin became cold – fast. We jumped into our sleeping bags and shivered until we fell asleep.

DAY TWO

In the morning I unzipped the tent to see a bluebird sky with a few cottonball clouds floating slowly overhead. We laid out our rain fly in the sun to dry out the morning dew and reviewed our route for the day: return back down to Mirror Lake, climb the ridge on its other side, and camp at Minam Lake for a second night.

In the time it took us to get back down Glacier Pass, the harmless cottonball clouds from the morning were replaced by a canopy of gray hostile clouds moving in from all sides.

No doubt about it - we were headed into a thunderstorm.

Ivan Carper Pass

Our return to the now-vacated Mirror Lake was unceremonious as we needed to quicken our pace to get over the ridge before the weather really turned.

We quickly climbed the Ivan Carper Pass to 8,560', where from atop we had a panoramic view of the lakes basin. In the distance we watched a small group of hikers make their way up Eagle Cap. I felt uneasy on their behalf as the clouds emitted a low grouchy rumble.

But we had our own situation to worry about; from the top of the pass we weren't exactly where we should be either. We took one last gaze on Eagle Cap, now enveloped in a dark cloud, jogged down the other side of the ridge, and took sanctuary in the trees.

Minam Lake

What felt like an eternity of switchbacks later, we reached Minam Lake. The hail and thunder had stopped, but the rain was just getting started. We took refuge under a giant hemlock tree and unanimously decided to hike out the last 6.2 miles to the trailhead and head home a night early.

Shortly after committing to doubling our miles for the day, two women on horseback appeared like a mirage in the desert, towing two riderless horses behind them. After exchanging pleasantries, one of the riders said, "It's a shame there are three of you, or else you could ride these two horses back to the trailhead!"

I contemplated abandoning Jeff and Matthew and riding off into the rain on horseback. I mean, how much did I like them, really?

One look at their faces and I could tell they were both thinking the same thing. Before any one of us could muster the courage to act, the horses and their riders cantered off, taking any hope of getting back to the cars dry with them.

We made it to the trailhead on foot a few hours later, soaked, muddy, and tired. We found our cars – unsurprisingly now alone in a deserted parking lot – and drove home through the night.

ADVICE

GETTING THERE

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is located in the Wallowa-Whitman Forest in the northeastern corner of Oregon. It's about a 6-hour drive from Portland (directions) or 7 hours from Seattle (directions).

You'll need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead, or you can buy a day pass ($5/day) at the trailhead. Visitors are also required to carry a Wilderness Visitor Permit; it's free and self-issued at the trailhead.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

With dozens of trails and lakes, there are many ways to enjoy Oregon's largest wilderness area. This was our way:

We started at the Two-Pan Trailhead and took the Lostine Trail #1662 an easy 7 miles to Mirror Lake. From there, we continued to the Glacier Pass Trail to the spectacular Glacier Lake, where we dispersed camped for the night.

The next morning we hiked back down to Mirror Lake to the junction with Ivan Carper Pass Trail. We climbed up the pass and then immediately descended the ridge down to Minam Lake. We originally planned to camp at Minam Lake, but due to weather we decided to keep going back to the trailhead using the West Fork Lostine River Trail #1670.

If I could do it again, I would repeat the first day, but on the second day I would return to Mirror Lake, climb Eagle Cap via Horton Pass, and then camp for a second night at Mirror Lake. I will be doing that next time!

CAMPING

There are several great camping spots on this loop - take your pick! Be sure to mind the Eagle Cap Wilderness regulations and camp at least 200 feet away from lakes.

Food and Water

Given you are hiking around a lake basin, there is a pretty good supply of water on the trails and at camp areas. Just don't forget to bring a water filter system!

When you're done with the trail, get a beer and burger at Terminal Gravity Brewery in Enterprise, Oregon.

Safety

This area is no stranger to thunderstorms and quick weather changes. Study the weather forecast before setting out and continue to assess conditions, especially if you plan to climb Eagle Cap.