Mount Fitz Roy

Patagonia

By Yes Mom I'm Alive

EL CHALTÉN

The morning after we finished hiking in Torres del Paine park, we took a long bus ride to the Argentine side of Patagonia.

Our homebase in Argentina was El Chaltén, a small frontier town on the edge of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, where wild dogs and outdoor supply stores outnumber the town's permanent population.

LAGUNA DE LOS TRES TRAIL

After a night in our small inn at El Chalten, we woke up early the next morning and started our hike to Mount Fitz Roy via the 22 kilometer Laguna de los Tres trail.

ADVICE

GETTING THERE

Mount Fitz Roy is located in the Los Glaciares National Park on the outskirts of El Chaltén, a mountain town in the Patagonian region of Argentina. El Chaltén can be reached by a three-hour bus from El Calafate, Argentina. Transportation information and schedules can be found here.

When you arrive in El Chaltén, the bus will first stop at the rangers' station. You and your fellow passengers will be asked to get off the bus to attend a short orientation covering safety tips, the week's weather forecast, and local trail conditions. You can ask the helpful rangers for hiking recommendations based on your skill level and time in the area.

The rangers' station has a small room dedicated to the pioneering climbers and adventurers of the area; it's worth a look around before getting back on the bus. When everyone has re-boarded, the bus continues to the bus station downtown.

There are no public buses in El Chaltén - but don't worry, it's a small and very walkable town.

WEATHER

The Patagonian summer - October through March - is typically the best time to hike to Mount Fitz Roy. November and December are generally the driest of those months, but you should still expect and prepare for the possibility of rain and stormy weather. Weather forecasts are generally unreliable until the day before, as weather in Patagonia can change quickly.

We were extremely lucky to have the weather and visibility we had at Fitz Roy. The massif is typically covered or partially covered by clouds about 66% of the time. Even if it is partially covered, it's still worth the hike. Hell, even if the massif is completely enveloped, I would still say go for it - the river valley alone is beautiful and you can still go visit the hanging glacier that's a small detour from the trail (see below).

RECOMMENDED HIKES

The hike to Laguna de los Tres (22 km, 800m elevation gain) is long but relatively easy. The trailhead is located at the very end of the main street that runs straight down El Chaltén - literally just walk north down San Martin and you'll get there.

Some hikers prefer to begin the hike at Hosteria el Pilar, a hotel outside of El Chaltén. You could also consider making it a loop and take a taxi between El Chaltén and El Pilar.

The hike begins with some elevation gain, but flattens out for several pleasant miles after the first mirador. The trail takes you through a beautiful river valley with the toothy Fitz Roy looming overhead. After crossing the valley, you'll come to a final ascent of steep rocky switchbacks. Hang in there - it is over soon enough and the view as you come over the ridge will instantly make you forget the pain.

Once you arrive at the lake under the Mount Fitz Roy massif, sit and enjoy your lunch before exploring the area. You can walk around the three lakes for different views of the massif and surrounding rock features.

You can easily add a visit to base of Cerro Torre if you camp overnight at Campamento Poincenot (see below). From the campground, it's a 3-hour hike to Laguna Torre. From there, you can decide to return the way you came or connect to other trails returning to El Chaltén.

Also, there is a short detour off the Laguna de los Tres hike that takes you under Glacier Piedras Blancas. When you cross the Rio Blanco on the Laguna de los Tres trail, turn right on the El Pilar trail. It's about an hour's walk to reach the glacier. If you start your hike from Hostel El Pilar, you'll pass it on your way to the lakes.

Camping + Accommodations

Hikers can decide to do Laguna de los Tres as a day hike, or camp overnight near the base of Fitz Roy at Campamento Poincenot. It's a free but primitive campground (there is a latrine but no water,, though Rio Blanco is nearby). If Jeff and I had budgeted more time, we would have happily stayed overnight in order to spend more time gazing at Fitz Roy. You can rent camping gear at a number of places in El Chaltén.

Back in town, El Chaltén has plenty of accommodation options, from low-budget hostels and campsites to upscale hotels. The town is rapidly expanding in response to the ever-growing flux of outdoor enthusiasts, climbers, and hikers.

Food + Water

Rio Blanco bisects the trail a few miles in. You can decide to filter the water but most people just drink straight from the river.

As for food, we grabbed a baguette sandwich from a bakery on the main street the day before our hike. El Chaltén has a few (somewhat meager) grocery stores where you can get food for the trail.

Post-hike, I recommend dinner at Patagonicus for pizza and beer, or Como Vaca, for delicious Argentina barbecue.

Safety

It's a long hike, so make sure you pack plenty of water, food and first aid supplies. Budget enough time to finish the hike before dark, or bring a headlamp. I suggest reserving 10-11 hours to complete this hike, including a long lunch at the lake.

Wear practical hiking shoes. The trail is well-graded until the last ascent, which involves some modest scrambling and the potential to twist your ankle.

Other Advice

We encountered a few unanticipated issues in El Chaltén. Many establishments did not accept debit or credit cards, yet there was only one working ATM in the town by the bus station. If memory serves, it did not accept all banking cards (I believe it took Visa but not MasterCard). I recommend bringing plenty of cash (Argentine pesos).

There was also a real shortage of vegetables and quality food in the grocery stores in El Chaltén. We overheard a local guide saying that they can go months without seeing lettuce or produce. Adjust your expectations accordingly.