The Mount Margaret Backcountry is about as good as it gets: rocky ridges, cobalt alpine lakes, wildflower fields, herds of elk and mountain goats, panoramic views, and let's not forget the unobstructed views into the crater of a steaming volcano!

GETTING THERE

The Mount Margaret backcountry can be accessed at two major points: South Coldwater Trailhead to the west, or Norway Pass to the east.

We started our loop from South Coldwater Trailhead. From Portland, it's a 2-hour drive (directions). From Seattle, it'll take you 3 hours (directions). No permit is needed to park here.

Norway Pass will take you 3 hours from Portland (directions) and 3.5 hours from Seattle (directions). You'll need a Recreation Pass to park at the trailhead.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

There are a number of ways to experience the Mount Margaret backcountry. I thought our two-night loop route allowed us to see the most and stay at the best campsites, but there really is no bad way to do it!

We started at South Coldwater #230A Trailhead and headed northeast to Dome Camp for our first night. On the second day we traversed around the lakes on Boundary Trail #1 to Snow Lake Camp, and returned to the trailhead on our third day via Lakes Trail #211. This 28-mile loop ends up being roughly 10 miles per day and minimizes elevation gain.

You could also start from Norway Pass and hike north to Snow Lake Camp. The next day, continue down Lakes Trail #211 and cut across the Coldwater Trail #220 to Dome or Margaret Camp. On your final day, hike back to Norway Pass.

If you only have one night, start at Norway Pass Trailhead and hike the 8 or so miles to Dome Camp. This covers what I felt was the most scenic section of the area.

NOT RECOMMENDED ROUTES

Looking at the map, you might consider taking the Whittier Ridge Trail to make a small loop around the lakes. However, I would caution against using this trail. Recent trip reports suggest erosion has caused this narrow ridge to be quite unstable and dangerous; we met several experienced hikers who turned back half-way after a few near slips. I'm all for a challenge, but it's pretty dicey guys!

Try to avoid heading east on Lakes Trail #211 – it does nothing but go up. I would rather go downhill after Snow Lake than climb up to it!

CAMPSITES

Camping in the Mount Margaret backcountry is limited to eight designated campsites, accommodating a maximum of 4 people (no pets allowed). Each campsite has a wood-framed tent pad, solar toilet and a sump hole for any gray water.

Given the limited amount of campsites, grab your permits early (permits go up for sale in March and cost $6). If you can't get your first choice site, play with different trail routes to make available campsites work.

From west to east, the eight campsites are:

Ridge Camp: Ridge Camp is a large soft dirt campsite located above Coldwater Lake and under Minnie Peak. The campsite is just a short distance from the first two major viewpoints of the Coldwater Canyon and Mount St. Helens. Water sources here often dry up by mid-summer, so you may need to carry in your water.

Dome, Margaret and Bear Camp: Located above 5000' on the Boundary Trail, each campsite provides a striking view of Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake. (Bear Camp also has a view of Mount Rainier from the upper tent site).

Obscurity Lake Camp: The campsite is not actually located on the lake and past campers report it's hard to get to the lake from camp... I guess that explains the name, huh?

Shovel and Panhandle Lake Camps: While lake-adjacent and fairly private, both campsites require a steep descent to get to. You can use the lakes or streams for water.

Snow Lake Camp: Also lake-adjacent and right on the Lakes Trail if you plan to head west back to Coldwater Trailhead. This camp is located in the bowl of two spurs often traversed by elk; you can often hear them bugling at sunrise.

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