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Mount Margaret (Again)

Washington

By Yes Mom I'm Alive

COLDWATER LAKE TRAIL

Last May Jeff and I attempted the 28-mile loop of the Mount Margaret backcountry, but we had to bail out after the first night due to snow. The 9 miles we did complete, however, were so striking we went home and immediately purchased permits to try again when the snow melted.

In August we returned with our friend Matthew in tow and successfully completed the loop.

DOME CAMP

Dome Camp was almost unrecognizable from our first visit in May – instead of a foot of snow, laurel green grass and wildflowers covered the surrounding slopes.

We set up camp and re-filled our water supply in the trickling stream nearby. After dinner, Matthew, Jeff and I explored the hillsides around camp. We spotted a family of white mountain goats ambling along some cliffs and a dozen elk bedding down for the night in the river valley below.

SUNSET

Atop the tallest hill above camp, a cloudless sky gave us a sweeping view of St. Helens Lake, Spirit Lake and the crater of Mount St. Helens. We sat together on a felled tree and watched in awe as the sun slowly set and the sky turned lilac and blush pink.

THE LAKES BASIN

The next morning we woke up and felt the warm sun already upon us. There wasn't a cloud in the sky – just a few sunk into the canyon below camp.

We set off by mid-morning and continued east along the particularly scenic Boundary Trail #1. Along the way we saw all of our favorite volcanoes – Adams, Rainier and Hood.

After turning north after Norway Pass we entered the high lakes basin. The huckleberry bush-lined trail weaved around five sapphire alpine lakes.

SNOW LAKE CAMP

It was when we arrived to Snow Lake Camp that Matthew – who decided last-minute to leave behind his tent in the car to test out sleeping outside – announced he was going to keep going to the trailhead rather than camp in the cold and damp another night. Jeff and I were keen to spend another night out, so we bid him farewell.

Little did we know when Matthew turned the final bend out of sight it would be the last time anyone ever saw him.

(Just kidding, he made it home safely.)

Jeff and I had a peaceful evening at Snow Camp. I read a book while laying on a felled log while Jeff skipped rocks in the lake. As dusk approached, large wispy clouds enveloped the craggy ridges above camp. When we couldn't see more than a hundred feet in front of us, we took our cue and retired to our tent.

THE LAKES TRAIL

We woke up the next morning to the thuds of hooves and rocks being kicked loose by a family of elk traversing clumsily along the ridge above us. I unzipped our tent and shook the raindrops off the rainfly. It seemed like a good day to go home.

After packing up camp, we headed westward to the trailhead on Lakes Trail #211. The trail was surprisingly overgrown with thorny shrubs and punctuated with rock slides. I was impressed Matthew managed to do this on his own in the dark (well, assuming he had; there was a small part of me that expected to come across him huddled on the side of the trail).

The trail lowered us further and further down until finally we reached the shore of Coldwater Lake. From there, it was a flat and tedious 4.5 miles to the trailhead.

ALMOST THERE

How can it be that such a beautiful hike could have such a miserable ending?

Inexplicably, the Coldwater Trail does not connect to the South Coldwater Trail, so we had to walk the final mile along the shoulder of the paved road that lead to the Johnston Ridge Observatory. When we stepped onto pavement, it started to rain and every time a car passed us, we were pelted with gravel.

Morale was low.

When we arrived at the parking lot, we let out a yelp of joy. As Jeff read the note Matthew left on our windshield confirming he made it back safely, I tore off my pack next to the rear of the car...and saw that the passenger side tire was completely flat.

We popped open the trunk and learned for the first time that Jeff's used Subaru came with a spare tire, but not a jack and tire iron. The parking lot was empty, we had no cell reception, and it was the late afternoon on a rainy Sunday – we were screwed.

Jeff and I huddled in the covered shelter of the Subaru and ate the last of our trail mix, alternating between crying and laughing about our poor dumb luck. As I started to contemplate walking back to the Coldwater Trailhead, a mini-van pulled into the parking lot. The driver kindly let us borrow his jack and tire iron and even helped us put on the spare.

We slowly and nervously drove 60 miles to the Longview Walmart, the only tire center open on a Sunday. There, we slumped exhaustedly in the chairs in the lobby and ate peanut butter m&m's while we waited nearly two hours for our tire to be patched.

A detour to Walmart wasn't exactly how we envisioned ending our weekend, but they got us on the road again, nearly 13 hours after we started out from camp that morning.

ADVICE

The Mount Margaret Backcountry is about as good as it gets: rocky ridges, cobalt alpine lakes, wildflower fields, herds of elk and mountain goats, panoramic views, and let's not forget the unobstructed views into the crater of a steaming volcano!

GETTING THERE

The Mount Margaret backcountry can be accessed at two major points: South Coldwater Trailhead to the west, or Norway Pass to the east.

We started our loop from South Coldwater Trailhead. From Portland, it's a 2-hour drive (directions). From Seattle, it'll take you 3 hours (directions). No permit is needed to park here.

Norway Pass will take you 3 hours from Portland (directions) and 3.5 hours from Seattle (directions). You'll need a Recreation Pass to park at the trailhead.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

There are a number of ways to experience the Mount Margaret backcountry. I thought our two-night loop route allowed us to see the most and stay at the best campsites, but there really is no bad way to do it!

We started at South Coldwater #230A Trailhead and headed northeast to Dome Camp for our first night. On the second day we traversed around the lakes on Boundary Trail #1 to Snow Lake Camp, and returned to the trailhead on our third day via Lakes Trail #211. This 28-mile loop ends up being roughly 10 miles per day and minimizes elevation gain.

You could also start from Norway Pass and hike north to Snow Lake Camp. The next day, continue down Lakes Trail #211 and cut across the Coldwater Trail #220 to Dome or Margaret Camp. On your final day, hike back to Norway Pass.

If you only have one night, start at Norway Pass Trailhead and hike the 8 or so miles to Dome Camp. This covers what I felt was the most scenic section of the area.

NOT RECOMMENDED ROUTES

Looking at the map, you might consider taking the Whittier Ridge Trail to make a small loop around the lakes. However, I would caution against using this trail. Recent trip reports suggest erosion has caused this narrow ridge to be quite unstable and dangerous; we met several experienced hikers who turned back half-way after a few near slips. I'm all for a challenge, but it's pretty dicey guys!

Try to avoid heading east on Lakes Trail #211 – it does nothing but go up. I would rather go downhill after Snow Lake than climb up to it!

CAMPSITES

Camping in the Mount Margaret backcountry is limited to eight designated campsites, accommodating a maximum of 4 people (no pets allowed). Each campsite has a wood-framed tent pad, solar toilet and a sump hole for any gray water.

Given the limited amount of campsites, grab your permits early (permits go up for sale in March and cost $6). If you can't get your first choice site, play with different trail routes to make available campsites work.

From west to east, the eight campsites are:

Ridge Camp: Ridge Camp is a large soft dirt campsite located above Coldwater Lake and under Minnie Peak. The campsite is just a short distance from the first two major viewpoints of the Coldwater Canyon and Mount St. Helens. Water sources here often dry up by mid-summer, so you may need to carry in your water.

Dome, Margaret and Bear Camp: Located above 5000' on the Boundary Trail, each campsite provides a striking view of Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake. (Bear Camp also has a view of Mount Rainier from the upper tent site).

Obscurity Lake Camp: The campsite is not actually located on the lake and past campers report it's hard to get to the lake from camp... I guess that explains the name, huh?

Shovel and Panhandle Lake Camps: While lake-adjacent and fairly private, both campsites require a steep descent to get to. You can use the lakes or streams for water.

Snow Lake Camp: Also lake-adjacent and right on the Lakes Trail if you plan to head west back to Coldwater Trailhead. This camp is located in the bowl of two spurs often traversed by elk; you can often hear them bugling at sunrise.

Food and Water

There is not a lot of running water along the trail between camps, so plan to carry at least two liters each day.

Water sources at camps may be frozen in the early summer and dry in the late summer. Call the Ranger's Station for current conditions before setting out. Be sure to bring a water filtration system. Look here for maps of water sources at each campsite.

Campfires are not permitted in the backcountry, so you will need to cook with a camping stove or just bring cold eats.

On your way home, stop in Toutle at Patty's Place for homemade berry cobbler and elk burgers.

Safety

Like with most backcountry areas, these trails are not often patrolled and it's common to not see other hikers on certain sections of the trail. Take extra caution with your safety. Stay on the trail, follow your route, bring a map and compass, and watch your footing.

Snow is common above 3000' in early to mid summer. Trust me.

Whittier Ridge has become more and more narrow and dangerous to traverse. Please read recent trip reports and consult with the ranger's station before considering this route.

Wear sunscreen and a hat in the summer. The trail is almost exclusively exposed and unshaded.

Oh - and check your tire pressure before you leave home. You just never know.

Questions?

As always, I'm happy to help you plan your trip in one of my favorite areas of the Pacific Northwest! Leave a comment below or email me at yesmomimalive@gmail.com

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