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The W Trail: Part 2

A Guide to Hiking at the End of the World

By Yes Mom I'm Alive

Now that you are all packed and ready, it's time to begin one of the most beautiful and rewarding hikes of your life.

This section of the guide covers the day-to-day route of The W Hike, including shortcuts, campground recommendations and other firsthand advice one usually can only learn the hard way.

My partner Jeff and I had a near-perfect time following the route described below. We liked the pace, we got to see everything at what felt like the optimal moment, we had restful afternoons to enjoy just being there, and we felt we made the most of our time and money.

That said - please take my advice and suggested route with a grain of salt! Maybe this route doesn't fit into your schedule. Maybe you want to do this thing in 4 days/3 nights. Maybe you want to start your first day at Torres del Paine, and carry all that weight on your back up there. By all means, do so - it's your trip! The last thing I want to do is create "The Lonely Planet Route for 20-Somethings" by which everyone does the same trail the very same way.

I hope you have a fantastic time on the trail. Please don't hesitate to reach out to me at yesmomimalive@gmail.com if you have questions or suggestions!

MAP OF THE PARK

The above map was created by Steph & Ben. They did a great job making it easy to follow the day-by-day route.

This map shows the outline of The W Hike, with each color being the route for each day. It should be obvious from looking at it how this hike got its name (let me know if you need a hint).

In this post, I'm going to refer to places on this map a lot. I recommend keeping the map open in another tab and consulting it as we go along to orient yourself.

Heads up: In Torres del Paine Park, you can also do The O Circuit (8-10 days) or the slightly longer The Q Circuit (9-11 days). Both of these circuit routes include The W trail but also go into the backside of the park.

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ARRIVAL AT THE PARK

Your alarm goes off at 5 am. Don't worry about waking your bunkmates - they are all getting up at the crack of dawn, too. You slowly crawl out of bed, taking your time to say goodbye to its warmth and comfort for the next week. Everyone eagerly looks at their phones one last time to see if the forecast changed since they checked it a few hours ago (it has, for better or worse).

After a rushed breakfast in the hostel kitchen, everyone begins the short walk to the blocks to the bus station. You'll see backpackers emerging from all corners of Puerto Natales, wearing overstuffed backpacks and hiking boots with the laces untied.

You and your fellow hikers will throw their packs in the storage under the bus and climb into the cabin. It's a 3-hour drive to the park, plenty of time for you to sit back and nap to make up for the early start.

Your bus will enter the Torres del Paine National Park at Porteria Laguna Amarga on the far east side of the park. Every buses will stop at the information center here. Everyone will get off the bus (you can leave your packs) to go inside and pay the park entrance fee (18,000 CLP, or ~$27 per person) and watch a short orientation video. The orientation video will primarily cover the rules of the park - the biggest and most important being "Don't burn down the park, dummy."

When you have paid and the orientation video is over, hikers have two choices:

1. Those of you hiking the W Trail from East to West begin the hike from the information center.

2. Those of you who are hiking West to East will get back on the bus and go to the west side of the park.

I recommend West to East. You can use the information in this guide if you're going the other way, too, but you'll have to translate some of the information on your own. You can also consult some blogs that have specifically covered the East to West route - like Steph & Ben's Travels.

Here is why I recommend hiking The W from West to East:

1. You save Torres del Paine ("The Towers") for the big finale.

2. You save the hardest hike for the last few days, when your pack is lighter because you ate more of your food and when you've got a few days of hiking under your belt.

I might be compelled to do it the other direction if I knew there was a good chance Torres del Paine would not be visible on the last day (for example, a rain storm was coming in on the later half of your hike).

That said - feel free to go whatever way you want - it's your journey and really, you can't go wrong!

DAY ONE: TO GLACIER GRAY

So, assuming you're with me on the West to East route, here is what happens after you get done watching the orientation video at Porteria Laguna Amarga:

Get back on your bus and put your park ticket in your dry bag. The bus will drive a scenic ~45 minutes west to its second stop, Guarderia Pudeta, on the edge of Lago Pehoe.

You and your fellow hikers will disembark the bus and walk to the catamaran (catamaran is a fancy word for a little ferry boat). The catamaran will take you across Lago Pehoe to Refugio Paine Grande, where you will begin your hike. The cost is 8,000 CLP (~$12) and you pay on-board.

Now, depending on your arrival time and the catamaran schedule, you may have some time to kill. If you have at least 35 minutes, I highly recommend going on a little hike to Salto Grande for a fantastic view of a waterfall and Los Cuernos ("The Horns"). If you have less time than that, chill in the little cafe next to the pier and use the bathroom before you board the boat.

Pro-Tip: You want to get on the catamaran almost last. Why? Because when you board everyone throws their packs in a giant pile at the front of the boat. If you get on near the first, you will have to wait forever to get your pack when the boat docks.

When it's time to board the catamaran, I recommend going to the top deck for the views. Lago Pehoe sits under the magnificent Los Cuernos and from the back of the catamaran you can get a stunning view. I know everyone loves the Torres del Paine, but for me, Los Cuernos was the mountain I came to the park to see. We unfortunately had a cloudy morning when we crossed the lake but hopefully you will have a better view!

The catamaran will dock around 1 pm at Refugio Paine Grande. You should grab your pack off the pile and begin your hike without much delay. You have 11 km (6.8 miles) of hiking ahead of you to get done before dark. It should take you 3.5-4.5 hours, depending on the wind and how often you want to stop to take in the beautiful surroundings.

This portion of the hike runs the edge of Lago Grey, where a pretty impressive glacier lies at its northern tip. That's where you're heading tonight.

When you arrive to Refugio Grey, check in at the camp office. Refugio Grey is an indoor lodge with an adjacent private campground where you can pitch your tent. Pay 4300 CLP (~$7) per person and go find a flat and dry place to set up your first camp.

Refugio Grey tends to be a little rainier than other places on the trail because Glacier Grey (which you will get to visit after you set up your tent) has its own microclimate. And that microclimate is mostly wet drizzle.

Once you have your tent set up and secured, head further afield to see Glacier Grey, which measures 6 km (3.7 miles) wide and 30 m (98 ft) high. There is a mirador overlooking the glacier about 4 km (2.4 miles) away from camp. You can choose to do the whole trail to the mirador, or just walk until you're satisfied with the view of the glacier from the trail.

When you're done looking at the glacier, head back to camp and make supper.

The Refugio Grey campground has an indoor cooking and dining room, with sinks with running water. It can get quite busy during the typical dinner hours, but it makes it easy to meet other hikers. You will be seeing these people every night for the next 4 days - you might as well get acquainted now!

Pro-Tip: If you want to take a shower, Camp Grey campground has free shower facilities. Tomorrow night you will be staying at a campground without running water or the option to shower, so plan accordingly.

When you've finished eating and washing up, get to bed. Tomorrow is going to be a long one!

Total distance for Day 1: 11 km (6.8 miles) to Refugio Grey.

You can add on another 4 km (2.4 miles) to the mirador over the glacier if you want for a total of 15 km (9.2 miles).

DAY 2: TO CAMPGROUND ITALIANO

Good morning and welcome to my favorite day in the park!

Wake up early, cook yourself some breakfast, and pack up camp. This will be the slowest you will ever pack up camp again - after doing it a few times you'll be up and out in the mornings in under 15 minutes!

Pro-tip: How early each morning should you set out each morning? That really depends on your preferences but I recommend waking up no later than 7 am. You will get more time to make breakfast and take down camp, as well as beat the traffic on the trail. Keep in mind that most people go to bed around 8 or 9 pm on the trail, so although 7 am sounds early, you'll still get plenty of beauty sleep!

Begin your morning hike by hiking back to Refugio Paine Grande. That's right - you gotta repeat the first leg of the hike. That's the way a W works!

Fortunately, it's impossible to tire of the views on this trail and it's easier going back due to it being primarily downhill and the wind working in your direction. It will take about 3-3.5 hours to get back to Refugio Paine Grande where you started yesterday's hike.

When you arrive back at the refugio, stop and have lunch overlooking the lake. You can watch today's batch of hikers getting off the catamaran and smirk. (What n00bs, amirite?)

When you're done, head east toward Campamento Italiano (7.6 km or 4.7 miles, ~2 hours). This is my favorite section of the park. It takes you around Lake Skottsberg with a view of the western side of Los Cuernos.

You'll walk across a fun suspension bridge over the surprisingly strong Rio del Frances to get into camp. Campamento Italiano is a free campground located under the foreboding but majestic Paine Grande (3000m). There is a water sprout at camp, but you can also just use water from the river. There is also a ranger station, staffed during the main hiking season. The rangers post daily updates on the weather and wind forecasts on a board outside their cabin.

Set up camp and get ready for dinner - you earned it! The campground has a covered cooking area that is a bit on the rustic side if I'm being kind. Please do your part and clean up after yourself when you're done cooking!

If you have some daylight and energy after dinner, I enjoyed goofing around with Jeff on the suspension bridge outside camp. The view of Paine Grande is pretty epic from around the campground.

As you fall asleep, listen for the sound of ice crashing down off Paine Grande. It sounds like a car accident is happening right outside your tent (but definitely more cool and less terrifying than that sounds...).

Total distance for Day 2: 18.5 km (11.5 miles)

DAY 3: FRENCH VALLEY

The third day has the best start because you get to leave your behemoth of a backpack at camp as you hike up into the French Valley! You'll be returning to camp later that day.

After you finish breakfast, pack up camp and put your camping gear in your pack. Some campers choose to leave their tents set up, but I recommend just taking care of that now. When you are packed up, leave your pack at the Ranger's Station, where they will keep your bag for you for free.

Pro-tip: The rangers store your bags outside and while theft is rare, take your valuables with you. You'll be needing your camera anyways.

With the reduced weight on your back, head up into what is called the French Valley (7.5 km or 4.6 miles one way, ~3 hours). Be careful to look for the orange markers along the trail - there are a few places you can lose sight of the trail. We ended up missing the orange marker where the trail crosses the river, and we ended up climbing up a steep hill for far too long before we realized that we were not where we were meant to be. We ended up getting a really great view but we were definitely off-trail (a big no-no in the park)!

The French Valley is beautiful - you're surrounded by beautiful and oddly-shaped mountains. Aleta del Tiburon ("The Shark Fin") is my particular favorite peak in the skyline (it is not hard to miss). Have your lunch on a giant boulder and take in the view.

When you're done, make your way down to camp again (another 7.5 km or 4.6 miles). When you get to camp, swoop up your gear (see, aren't you glad you packed up camp already?) and head out toward Refugio Los Cuernos (5.5 km or 3.4 miles, ~1.5 hours).

The start of this section is steep but it soon goes downhill as you drop down to the rocky beach shore of Lake Nordenskjöld. This is such a surprising part of the park - the landscape shifts to lush green flora in contrast with the teal blue lake.

Pro tip: On the harder sections of the trail, Jeff and I would each put in headphones and listen to our iPods. It was a great motivator and kept us from complaining to each other how tired we were. Plus, it created a cool soundtrack for the scenery passing by. Recommendations: Lord Huron's Lonesome Dreams or Beach House's Bloom.

You'll end your day at the Refugio Los Cuernos with an adjacent private campground. You can camp here for 5,000 CLP (~$7.50).

....Or you could be a total baller like us and stay in a private cabin. Jeff and I splurged and rented a private one-room cabin for our third night. We were in Patagonia to celebrate my 30th birthday and this was one of my last nights in my 20s. Plus, at the time we booked the cabin (about a month in advance) we thought we'd be rained on and after 3 days we'd want a reprieve. Luckily, it didn't rain on us but we were still very happy we rented this cabin. It was pricey and but worth every peso. Did I mention outside of our cabin was a hot tub?

Total distance for Day 3: 20.5 km (11.6 miles)

DAY 4: TOWARDS TORRES

Day 4 - from Cuernos to Campamento Torres - is considered by many the hardest day on the trail. You will hike about 22 km (13 miles) today, and it will mostly be uphill.

It was our opinion that this section of the trail was not as hard as we were told it would be. When we arrived at Campamento Torres at 1 pm, four hours earlier than our estimated arrival time, we were left scratching our heads why most people say this section takes a full day. Maybe by Day 4 our legs were just steely or maybe we unknowingly teleported up the hillside. Day 4 was definitely the hardest section of the W Hike but on its own, I'd classify it only as "moderately difficult." In other words: You can do it.

Still, if you're feeling less than confident, I would recommend getting an early start. Wake up after dawn, have a good breakfast, and hit the trail before it gets too warm out.

About 9 km (5.5 miles) out of Refugio Los Cuernos you will encounter a big sign that says SHORTCUT. Take it. This will take you around the backside of one mountain and cut some time off an already pretty long day.

When you get to Refugio Chileno, take a lunch break by the river. You got still a bit of a climb to go, so take a nice rest.

Heads up: Around this part of the day, you will likely notice heavier traffic on the trail. That's because many people choose to hike (or pay a lot of money to ride a horse) to Los Torres as a day hike. On your steep descent down tomorrow, you will see why that seems like a very unpleasant thing to do. Nevertheless, for people who don't have the time or experience to do the full W Hike, they can at least see part of the park.

After you get back on the trail, you'll switchback through a nice shaded forest until you get to Campamento Torres. This campground is free. There are technically toilets and water here but it was the most disgusting public restroom situation I've ever seen (and I'm not by any means prissy).

The campground gets quite crowded so I recommend setting up camp as soon as you get in.

Jeff and I set up camp and then spent the rest of the day reading in the sun on some large boulders. There are some cool geological features in the hillsides surrounding camp.

Pro-Tip: Some people decide to climb up to the Torres on Day 4 after they set up camp, so they get a view of the towers during the day and again at dawn the next morning. If there are clouds in the forecast for the next day, I would recommend making the trip up twice to increase your chances of seeing the towers. It is a bit of a climb up there, so take a rest at camp first before going up if that's your plan.

On your fourth and final night, make dinner earlier than usual and try for an earlier bedtime - tomorrow you are going to wake up early!

Total distance for Day 4: 19 km (11.8 miles)

DAY 5: TOWERS

You will start your last day on the trail the way you started your first: Waking up ass-early.

When your alarm goes off, you will question whether it is really worth getting out of your warm, cozy sleeping bag to climb up 1250 ft just to see the sun hit some silly rock towers.

It is. Get up, sleepyhead.

Pro-Tip: Look up what time the sun rises based on the time of year you will be in the park. You may find in the high season that sunrise is much earlier than it is by late March. Consult this sunrise calendar for the park. Plan for at least an hour before sunrise to start your hike.

When you wake up, immediately put on your warmest layers (that puffer jacket suddenly becomes worth every peso). Grab your headlamp, gloves, your pack, trekking poles, a snack, and one sleeping bag (if you're traveling in a pair, bring just one for you both).

Then, start the 45-minute steep hike up to Mirador de Las Torres. The Towers. The climax. The end, almost.

When you're halfway up the hill, look behind you. In the dark, you will see a long trail of headlights bouncing in the pre-dawn light. You will feel like you're on some kind of pilgrimage (and you kind of are).

When you come over the hill to the base of the towers, you will see the three towers sticking out of a teal-blue glacier melt lake. Find yourself a giant boulder to sit on and wrap your sleeping bag around you and your partner. Grab your pre-breakfast snack and then wait.

The soft light from the sun will first hit the very top of the towers, turning the rock a warm shade of pink. It's a beautiful hypnotic 20 minutes watching the colors around you change.

Pro tip: Don't leave too quickly. Once the sun hits the bottom of the towers, the sun continues to rise and fill up the entire base and lake. Hang around for another 10 minutes after you see everyone else start taking off - good things are still coming.

When you've had your fill of the view (is that possible?), head down back to camp. Warm up breakfast and pack up camp for the last time on the trail. You'll want to be leaving camp around 9 am.

You will then begin your steep 8 km (4.9 miles) descent down to Refugio Chileno and to the finish line at Hotel Los Torres. This will take you about 3 hours.

As much as you huffed up those hills the day before, going down is somehow so much worse (or maybe it was just for us 30 year-olds and our aging knees). Jeff and I both put on headphones and just flew down the hill. When Hotel Los Torres was in sight, we both ran (yes, ran!) with our packs for the final few kilometers, over the small suspension bridge, and to the parking lot of the hotel.

There, we exchanged high-fives and then collapsed, laughing, on the lawn. Finishing the trail remains one of the happiest moments of my life.

Total distance for Day 5: 9.5 km (5.6 miles)

BACK TO PUERTO NATALES

At the Hotel Los Torres, a minibus picks up hikers a few times a day to take them back to Porteria Laguna Amarga to catch their return bus to Puerto Natales. The minibus costs 2500 CLP (~$3). Hikers can also choose to hike the remaining mile back to the entrance but honestly, it's a dull, dusty, unshaded walk. I was happy to pay the $3 for the lift to the buses.

We were about an hour early for the 2 pm minibus, so we sat on the lawn and enjoyed a cold soda from the nearby concession stand and congratulated our fellow hikers coming off the trail.

The minibus will return you to the information center, where you will wait for your bus to show up. Make sure you still have your return ticket - it's good on the first company bus that shows up with space available.

When you do get on your bus, sit back and enjoy the 3-hour ride back to Puerto Natales.

Pro tip: I recommend rationing some snacks for the bus ride home, as it is long and your hunger will hit you probably 20 minutes into it.

When you arrive back in Puerto Natales, collect your pack and limp back to your hostel.

After taking a shower, go return your rental gear. Some rental places will make you set up your tent for an inspection to make sure you are coming back with all the parts. If you rented your gear from Base Camp (or even if you didn't), I highly recommend staying and demolishing a pizza and locally brewed beer to celebrate finishing the hike. Jeff and I both ate an entire pizza on our own. No regrets at all.

QUESTIONS?

I hope this guide was helpful to you in planning and preparing to hike the W Trail. If you have questions or recommendations, reach out to me at yesmomimalive@gmail.com or leave a comment below - I'd love to hear from you!