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Yosemite

California

By Yes Mom I'm Alive

DAY ONE

Jeff and I departed mid-morning from Portland/PDX and flew into Sacramento/SAC, where upon landing we stood in line for 45 minutes to rent a car. After getting the keys to our white 2016 Toyota Corolla, we loaded our bags in the trunk and headed south. We stopped in Stockton to grab fuel from REI, groceries from Safeway and lunch from (where else?) In-N-Out.

The drive down I-5, as you can imagine, was not spectacular. The CA-120, however, was- especially at sunset. My favorite part was the curvy section between the towns of Moccasin and Priest, CA.

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

We arrived at Yosemite National Park well after dark. Somewhere in our planning, we neglected to print out a map- we just assumed we would have cell reception or we would get a map from the rangers' station. Wrong on both counts, when we arrived at 10 pm we had no idea where we were and how to get to our campground.

In the midst of this lost-ness, we came into a clearing in the valley and got our view of the tall, tall granite walls. We pulled over the car on the side of the road and just stood in awe of Yosemite Falls cascading down in the full moonlight.

We eventually found our way to the North Pines Campground with the help of a weak 4G signal. We quietly pulled into our lot and set up camp by the light of our headlamps.

DAY TWO

While we did manage to get a reservation for our first night at North Pines, all of the other campsites were booked for the rest of the weekend. So, we woke up at 5 am and drove over to Camp 4, Yosemite's only first-come, first-served campground.

The problem with there being only one first-come, first-serve campground in Yosemite is that well, it's very popular. So popular that Jeff and I had to get in line at 5:30 am. And when we arrived, there were already 20 people in line!

While Jeff waited in line for us, I snuck away to get a few pictures of sunrise around the Valley and Yosemite Falls.

UPPER YOSEMITE FALLS

After securing a camp spot and setting up our tent, we surveyed our hiking options for the day. Most of the park was still under snow and many of the roads were closed. This meant that at least for the day we were limited to hiking in the Valley.

We decided on the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail (9.4 miles roundtrip, 3000' elevation gain) because it seemed like a good introduction to the park and the trailhead was literally 30 feet from our tent.

About 1.5 miles into the hike we got a full-frontal view of Yosemite Falls, the highest waterfall in the United States, dropping 2,425 feet. The falls were particularly strong from the recent snowmelt.

A few miles of switchbacks later, we reached the top, where we stood over the edge of the wall and looked down on the entire Valley and cascading Yosemite Falls.

Soft, dry snow fell down around us as we stopped to take in the view and have lunch.

YOSEMITE POINT

After lunch, Jeff and I decided to continue another mile or so to Yosemite Point.

From Yosemite Point (6,939'), we had a great view of the valley below and one of our first views of the park's crown jewel, Half Dome.

When we started to head back, the snow really started to fall.

The Sierra Nevadas know how to put on a show.

HALF DOME VILLAGE

We made our way down the dozens of switchbacks and got to camp just before the rain started to pick up. We cleaned up a bit and took the free park shuttle to Half Dome Village (formerly Curry Village) in search of dinner. After nearly demolishing a large pizza at The Pizza Patio, we went back to camp and fell asleep.

DAY THREE

The next morning I woke up before dawn and nudged Jeff gently. "Do you want to come watch sunrise with me at Tunnel View?" I whispered.

"Swehshfhwga," he replied.

I took that as a no.

I grabbed the keys and drove west down Northside Drive towards Tunnel View. Fog floated above the valley floor beneath Cathedral and El Cap.

TUNNEL VIEW

I arrived at Tunnel View and took my place alongside the dozens of other ambitious photographers. This place is totally a cliche, but for good reason.

After waiting for 20 minutes in the near-freezing cold, the first rays of sun touched the cliffs behind Bridal Veil Falls.

And then sunrise was on.

VERNAL + NEVADA FALLS

I came back to Camp 4 to find Jeff exactly where I left him. We made breakfast and coffee and consulted our options for our second day of hiking.

We decided to do the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls (7 miles, 2000 ft. elevation gain) on the eastern side of the valley.

The first half of the hike to Vernal Falls is pretty crowded. The trail is also a bit steep and requires some pretty steady footing so I was impressed to see so many people and families at the top. Good job, American public!

After making it to the top of Vernal Falls, we continued onwards to Nevada Falls, a 594-foot waterfall sitting under Liberty Cap. What a piece of rock!

We decided to take the John Muir Trail down rather than returning the way we came. I highly recommend this route - it had some great views and the grade was much kinder on the knees.

TIOGA ROAD

When we returned to camp in the mid-afternoon, a ranger told us the Tioga Road had finally opened! We decided to take a late afternoon drive up there to see what we've been missing.

It was immediately evident to us that the Tioga Road, which cuts through the northern part of the park, is a very special place. When we return to Yosemite we plan to spend 100% of our time up there. It is quintessential Sierra Nevadas, especially when covered in snow.

OLMSTEAD POINT

We drove 40 miles down the Tioga Road to Olmsted Point, getting there just before sunrise. We had one helluva view of Cloud's Rest and Half Dome.

TENAYA LAKE

To the east, there is also a great view of Tenaya Lake. This might have been my favorite view in the whole park, and one of the first places I want to backpack when we return to Yosemite.

After watching the sunset behind Half Dome, we headed back to the Valley - when suddenly a black bear darted across the road! We pulled over as he scampered across this roadside meadow. I didn't get a good picture of the bear (it was at this point pretty dark out) but I do have some blurry evidence that I saw a bear in the wild!

DISTURBANCE AT CAMP 4

We came back to camp and crashed hard. Around midnight, we were awoken by a bunch of noise in our campsite. Some new neighbors had just arrived to Camp 4. Initially, Jeff and I were not bothered by their late arrival; it happens! We assumed they would go about their business as reasonably quiet as possible and then go to bed.

Nope.

For the next 2 hours they shined a 1000-watt stadium light into our tent, talked loudly about where to buy the best tacos in Fresno (among other inane topics), and got wicked drunk.

They also couldn't figure out how to set up their tent. One of them read directions to the other but the tent kept collapsing. After a few failed attempts, they gave up, half-assedly threw the rainfly over their tent and finally went to sleep.

In the morning I found their tent like this (below). Even worse, they left out their bags, food, beer and wine bottles and clothing in the campsite (despite about 1,010 posted signs reminding campers to use the provided bear lockers!). Birds, squirrels and other critters had ransacked their stuff overnight, scattering their clothing and personal effects around the campground. A ticket for not using the bear lockers was taped to their tent by a ranger. One of them was throwing up in their tent, hungover.

That, my friends, is what I call karma.

DAY FOUR

We only had a few hours on our last day to enjoy Yosemite before we needed to head back to Sacramento for our flight home. Rather than try to fit in another hike, Jeff and I decided to take it easy. We grabbed our remaining Sierra Nevada beers and binoculars and laid in a field and watched four climbers tackle a few pitches on the eastern El Cap wall.

RETURNING HOME

We left the park at 11 am and drove the 139 miles back to Sacramento, stopping for lunch at (where else?) In-N-Out.

Our mini-trip to Yosemite hardly went as planned - most of the roads remained closed to snow, we did not get a backcountry permit, the campgrounds were full, it was 29 degrees at night, and we missed the cables to hike up Half Dome by a week.

We ended up just hiking around The Valley and we had a great time - even if it wasn't our Plan A (or B. Or C.).

But Yosemite is big, and it is beautiful. I have no problem coming back.

ADVICE

First, either come to the park on a weekday or make peace with the fact that there will be crowds. Hell, there will still be crowds on a weekday.

Personally, I don't mind seeing a lot of people in a national park. In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with people coming out to enjoy the outdoors. Increasing the public's and younger generation's appreciation for the great outdoors is a very good thing!

But it can also be an annoying thing, if what you were expecting was some peace and quiet. You can avoid being elbowed on the trails by doing more strenuous hikes and starting earlier in the day.

Getting There

Fly into Fresno. We flew into Sacramento because it was slightly cheaper but next time I'd choose Fresno; it saves at least an hour of driving. Grab a rental car (you don't need anything rugged for Yosemite; a regular sedan will do) and stop at the Fresno REI to stock up on supplies if needed.

Camping

If you want to reserve a campground, book well in advance. Today is May 24 and August 31 is already booked in the park. If you are a procrastinator like us and didn't get a reservation, your best bet is to compete for a spot in Camp 4. Camp 4 is Yosemite's only first-come, first-serve campsite - and it is popular. People line up at 4 am in front of the Ranger's Kiosk at the campground in order to secure a spot. The time goes by quickly enough. Grab your sleeping bag and pad and nap for a few hours until the ranger comes to hand out numbers (typically between 7:30-8:30 am).

If Camp 4 doesn't work out for you, there is one last option, though it's riskier: At the Lower Pines, Upper Pines, and North Pines campground at the east side of the Valley, people no-show all the time. If a party doesn't check-in for their first evening and then they fail to check-in with the ranger by 10 am the following morning, they forfeit the rest of their reservation. Pull up to the rangers station at 10:01 am and ask if they had any last-minute cancellations or no-shows. If they do, it's yours for $26 bucks a night.

Recommended Hikes

Once you got your lodging sorted, it's time to get hiking! If you're lucky and the Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are open, you got a lot of decisions to make.If you are in the park for only 2-3 days, pick 2 or 3 of these hikes:

Upper Yosemite Falls to Yosemite Point (9.4 miles, 2969' elevation gain). Yes, it is worth the extra mile to get to Yosemite Point - keep going! If you're a real trooper and you started your hike in the early morning, keep going to North Dome.

The Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls (7.4 miles, 2000' elevation gain). I highly recommend you go up the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls, and then come down via the John Muir Trail. Technically the JMT makes the hike longer by 1.3 miles but it is far more scenic, less crowded, and the slope is kinder on your knees.

Glacier Point to Taft Point and Sentinel Dome (as a loop 5 miles, 500' elevation gain). We didn't get to do this one because Glacier Point Road was closed the weekend we were there due to snow. I highly recommend trying to make it up at sunrise at Glacier Point, and then making the loop around. Be sure to rub it in my face how beautiful it is.

Clouds Rest (14.5 miles, 1775' elevation gain). Another hike high on my "next time list". I'm told it offers a jaw-dropping view of the Valley, Half Dome and the backcountry.

Activities

Drive the Tioga Road to Olmsted Point (and beyond!). What a beautiful scenic drive, especially if there's still snow around. I recommend going up for sunset (it takes about an hour to get to Olmsted from the Valley, so give yourself time). This got me really, really excited for some backcountry hiking next time we come to Yosemite.

Sit and watch the climbers on El Cap. There's a field between El Cap and Cathedral where you can sit and watch climbers. Binocular recommended.

Pizza Patio in Yosemite Village (formerly Curry Pizza in Curry Village). After hiking 3000 ft and 8 miles, Jeff and I happily demolished a large pizza and some beer from this park favorite.

Make friends at Camp 4. Due to our limited time, we didn't spend a lot of time at camp. I wish we had. The campground is full of interesting people - climbers, boulderers, people who can rightfully use the hashtag #vanlife, hiking enthusiasts and a bunch of other people who just love the outdoors. People bring frisbees, games, beer, guitars and firewoods. Introduce yourself to your campmates; everyone is pretty friendly.

Safety and Security

Follow carefully all instructions for securing your food from bears. You'll be given information and asked to sign a statement saying you understand your responsibilities when you arrive to the ranger's booth. Don't leave food in your car and use the bear lockers. Yosemite rangers will fine you if you do not strictly adhere to these park rules.

Drive carefully. The roads are well-maintained but they are windy mountainous roads. Yosemite can get traffic in the Valley - try not to get impatient. If you want to look at something, pull over when it's safe to do so - don't slow down and drive the people behind you insane!

Final Advice

Be nice about the crowds. Yeah, in some places there will be a lot of people. You'll see people of all abilities, competencies, and cultures in Yosemite. Some know what they are doing on a trail and others have really just no clue at all. Rather than judge or roll your eyes, try to educate! If someone looks unprepared for a hard hike, stop them and ask them how far they plan to go. If someone is being obnoxious, ask them politely if they can be quiet so others can enjoy the trail. If you see someone not using the bear lockers, scream internally and after composing yourself, inform them what they need to do. Remember, people aren't born good campers - we've all had to learn somehow!